Thursday, April 15, 2010

明天会更好?A Brighter Future?

全家福
Family photo


婆孙俩
My grand daughter


我们仨(左)
部分本南村落(右上)
年纪轻轻,已是三个孩子的妈妈。我们住宿在背景之长屋最右边的房子(右下)
My children (left)
Part of the Penan Village (top right)
Young lady-already mother of three, the long house on the background is where we stayed for 2 nights (bottom right)


车抛锚了,我们步行6小时才回到长屋,3小孩跳入一潭水中消暑(左)
漫漫长路,不知何时才到目的地?(右上)
太阳下山了,我们还在赶路,再美的黄昏,
也无心欣赏!


很久以前就想到砂州内陆去看看本南人的生活情况,却一直都没机会。 3月杪,我终于和美里摄影学会会长萧特财先生,从美里开车,经过Long Lama到达本南村之旅的第一站Long Win。同行的还有该学会副会长梁绍钧和著名画家陈伟庆。

4天的本南村之旅,我们走访了Long Win, Long Bangan, Long Latai, Long KawaBapuak等本南村落。第一晚我们住在Long Win,这村庄算是较进步的, 住著38户人家。前几年发生严重水灾,村内所有屋子被淹坏, 村长饲养的鱼也被水冲走,损失惨重。灾后,大部分村民迁至较高地段,在没有政府帮助的情况下,各自把房子盖起来。经济能力好的,屋子还算盖得不错,老弱村民,却只好以旧木板和朔胶布,盖成简陋的房子,勉强可挡风雨。

村落没有水电供应,村民饮用没经过滤的雨水,洗澡洗衣在河里解决。我们入乡随俗,也跳入冰冷的河里洗澡,虽不习惯,却能消除疲劳。 上流伐木活动令河水多浊不堪,Long Win河也难逃命运。

夜里,除了备有发电机的几户人家屋里透出微弱的灯光外,整个村落陷入一个黑暗的世界。我们住在村长孩子空置的屋子。半夜下了一场毫雨,雨水有力地敲打锌片屋顶,发出震耳声音,却特别亲切,仿佛回到儿时住在新村的日子。

下一站是Bapuak村,这里比Long Win落后,人口约六七十人。一非政府组织盖了一所长屋,供部分人居住,余者则住在类似临时的简陋房子。这里的小孩都没念书,更不知道自己的确实年龄,也无身份证。平时除了随家人进森林狩猎捉鱼外,就无所事事。非政府组织曾尝试教本南人耕种,但却不成功。本南人早婚,一位看似约18岁的少女,已是3个小孩的母亲。

如一般本南村落,这里不但没有基本设备,离开城镇也很远,偶尔只有外地的汽车进村,就看不到任何交通工具。村里有孕妇要生了,到政府医疗所必须坐车和渡河才能到达,她的丈夫正愁着如何找一笔钱把妻子送院。了解这孕妇的处境后,我们每人给了她一些钱作为盘缠,希望她能顺利去医院生产。

内陆地区的交通确是个大问题,第二天早上,我们原本打算到另一村落拍摄,几位村民包括小孩,都兴致勃勃,跳上我们车子后的车格,欲乘顺风车去拜访亲友。汽车沿著前木山路开去,约一小时后竟然抛锚,停在路上进退不能。我们知道不会有其他车子进来,也不能拨电话找救兵。最后我们决定走路回去,从下午一时开始,在没有任何准备下,饿着肚子,一行人共步行了6个小时,好不容易才回到长屋,抵达时已是晚上了,这真是一段最漫长和艰辛的路程!一位妇女还抱着小孩,赤脚走完这段路,随行的几个小孩也是如此。这个经验,使我真正体会到本南人的无助和无奈!

本南人的明天会更好吗?我真的没有答案。能确定的是:他们是弱势的一群,也没分享到国家发展所带来的成果。即使许多本南人并没身份证,也没有登记为选民,但他们确是道道地地的原住民,政府应该马上给他们更多帮助。当然,本南人本身也要接受和适应改变,他们的思想和态度确还有许多弱点。

本南人也有一些成功的列子,Long Win村长告诉我,本南人已有大学毕业生,他的孩子也到城市谋生。美里一著名高尔夫球场的花草全由本南人栽种,球场老板还称赞他们能干。

但愿下回旧地重游,能看到他们的生活,真有所改善。

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

被遗忘的民族-本南人 Penan-The Forgotten Tribe

一代接一代,我们都是住在森林。
From one generation to another, we live in the forest.


这些孩子都没有读书,学校太远
或父母不知教育的重要?
None of these children go to school.
They live too far away from schools?
Or they just don't know the importance of education?


這隻犀鸟,已成桌上佳肴
We have hornbill for dinner

前村长,年轻时是狩猎高手(左图)
这药怎样吃?(右上图)
是厨房,也是客厅(右下图)
Long Kawa former headman (right)
An elderly couple in Long Bangan showed
us a plastic bag full of medicine,
they don't know how to take them (top right),
Kitchen and dinning all in one room (bottom right)

几乎每一戶人家都有养鸡。在Long Win,
向村长买了一只做晚餐,12马币。
In Long Win, most Penan household rear chicken,
we bought one for RM12 for dinner.

My home (top left and bottom)
Sago tree(right)
温暖的家(左图)
沙葛树(右图)

树枝和小木块表示:我们已迁移到小木块所指的方向,
晚上会在那里住宿。被削开的树皮代表人数的多寡,
这是他们传达讯息的方式。(左上图)
午餐时间—沙葛是本南人的主食(右图)
The small piece of wood indicated the direction
of the new location where they will spend the night
and the multiple cut on the bark
means there are more than one family. (top left)
Lunch time- Sago is their traditional staple food (right)


我国独立了53年,各领域确取得一定程度的发展,为了把国家经济带到另一高峰,首相最近推展了新经济发展模式。这是好事,关键是由政府推动的计划是否能让所人受惠?住在砂拉越乌鲁巴南(Ulu Baram) 的本南(Penan)人明显不属于被照顾的行列,可喻为已被遗忘的民族,几十年来,他们的生活至今非但没有获得改善,反而有每况愈下的迹象,前景令人担忧!

我在乌鲁巴南内陆两个本南村住了3个晚上,亲身体会本南人的生活,深感他们的无奈和无助。对于他们的生活情况,我想套用美里摄影学会会长萧特财先生的话:‘本南人的悲歌唱不完!’

本南族原本是游牧民族,生活在砂州内陆,居无定所,以狩猎捉鱼和采野果为生。生活条件艰苦,数代人如此过活,却自得其乐。

近年,州政府大量伐木,严重地影响森林生态,也直接干扰了本南人的生活。森林被砍伐,河水被污染,本南人失去基本生存条件。经过多年的折腾,本南人渐渐放弃游牧生活,无奈迁移到固定地点,自己盖了简陋的木屋住下来。根据Long Win村长Juwan先生说:砂州本南人人口约16000名,目前约45百人还住在森林里,余者已迁出来。

新环境并没有改善本南人的生活,一样没有水电供应和基本卫生设备。除了偶尔有外来的汽车,便没有任何交通工具,从一个村庄到另一个村,须步行34小时。他们还是以狩猎为生,由于森林大量被砍伐,猎物也越来越少,诚如马来谚语,他们‘如鸡只般早上找的早上吃,晚上找的晚上吃’,家无‘隔夜粮’。

我们的司机常来這里,說得一口流利的本南土语,他也是非政府组织成员,曾尝试教本南人种农作物,反应不理想,只随意种些沙葛树(Sago)。他感慨地说:目前只要能确保本南人有得吃,就算是一项成就。

政府是否有给帮助?被问者都以失望和生气的眼光看著我们。有的感叹地说:我们已被遗忘了!

The Penans used to live in the rain forest of the interior of the State of Sarawak as a nomadic tribe relying on hunting, fishing and gathering fruits for existence.

With increased logging activity, the Penan have lost their traditional way of life and moved into new settlements throughout Ulu Baram district. Long Win headman Mr. Juwan told me that there are roughly 16,000 Penans in Sarawak and about 400-500 of them still lead a nomadic life in the jungle.

Two weeks ago I traveled with friends from the Photography Society of Miri to a few Penans settlements like Long Win, Long Bangan, Long Latei, Long Kawa and Bapuak. We stayed there for 3 nights. Sadly to say their lives in the settlement have not improved.

Some NGOs built simple long houses for them, but most still live in dilapidated huts with no basic facilities at all. They have not much contact with the outside world. They still hunt, fish and plant sago trees for a living. Though the federal government had made education compulsory a few years ago, none of the children from Bapuak go to school. I think this apply to many of the children in other settlements too. I guess lack of transportation and ignorance are the main reasons.

Did the government help? The answer is always negative! If we want Penans to enjoy the fruits of development, we should look into their problems seriously and come out with a comprehensive plan to help them.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

石拿督庙 Sak Dato' Temple

Blessed By Guan Yin
观音赐甘露

Monkey King Overlooking The Village
齐天大圣守护村庄

愿者上钩

大庙正门


提起森属武来岸新村,许多人都会想到香火颇盛的玉封石拿督庙和风光迤逦的茅草山。

茅草山我已谈过,也上载了几张照片。作为一位道地人,我不能不提玉封石拿督庙。

玉封石拿督庙已有超过百年的历史,相传有一位名叫石满的原著民矿工,一日,他向同伴告别后即出门,过了些时候,托梦给朋友称已在一个山洞里仙逝,被玉皇大帝封为地方神,保佑村民。朋友半信半疑,却在所指山洞发现他的尸体,村民们就在原地建了一所小庙供奉他为玉封石拿督。

从此,村里人开始在此进香求福,颇为灵验。日治时期,传说村人被残暴日军令跪在大街,正要进行大屠杀时,突然一名日本军官似从天而降阻止了这场大灾难,村人相信这名日本军官就是玉封石拿督的化身。

紧急法令成立新村时,庙也搬迁到新村,七十年代才搬回原址,从新村通往庙的是条小路,还要经过三座破烂的木桥,没有电流供应等基本设备。除了本村人来上香,外人鲜少到此。

庙在1990年开始重建,在很巧妙的机缘下,一位风水师义务当设计师,同时也邀得一批好友献捐,修桥建路,奠下了今天这个规模。

最令人赞赏的是,理事会在1993年前成立‘善果园’基金会,将收到的香油钱和公众捐款,每月拨出数万马币帮助境内病黎,至今已拨出了三四百万马币,数千人受惠,求助者已有显著增加。

玉封石拿督庙还在发展中,已成为旅游胜地,许多外地游客周末都会前往,过年过节更是热闹。

Kampung Baru Broga is a small and relatively unknown new village where most of the villagers are rubber tappers. This is a unique village as half belongs to Negeri Sembilan and the other half to Selangor.

Since recent years, this small village began to gain popularity as a tourist destination as many visitors started to set their feet to this place. The main attractions are the scenic Bukit Lalang and the Sak Dato’ Temple.

I have uploaded a few photos that I took while I was on the top of Bukit Lalang in this blog. I will now show you some photos of Sak Dato’ Temple.

Sak Dato’ Temple is about 100 year old. It started as a small shrine for the villagers to pay respect and ask for blessings. Legend has it that an aboriginal by the name of Sak Man was selected as a local deity to guide and protect the villagers by the God of Heaven. The local believed that the deity could cure illnesses and bless them as well.

The temple was rebuilt in 1990 and since then much donations were collected to develop the temple as what it is today. The temple also set up a welfare fund to help the sick and the needy. Since 1993 more than 3 millions ringgit were given out to thousands of people.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

福虎生威迎新年


‘苛政猛于虎’,虽然老虎不比苛政令人害怕,但它确是令人生畏的动物。

既然人人谈虎色变,我们的祖先为何把它列入12生肖中,我们必须每12年就得迎接它的莅临?我对此没研究,也不是本文要谈的课题。

几年前,我到马六甲动物园拍摄,在众多动物中,我最喜爱的是老虎。在我眼里,老虎不但有王者风范,也是威严,灵活和精力充沛的象征。但對某些人来说,老虎全身是宝,他们相信虎皮有避邪的功能,虎肉和虎鞭,则可以壮阳。也使老虎成了黑市买卖的珍品,成了人类的猎物。

每年丧失在猎人的刀枪下的老虎不计其数,再加上森林不斷被砍伐,老虎已濒临绝种。虽然已被列为受保护动物,但还是有人知法犯法,进行杀虎的勾当。

上星期,霹州一位原住民自称在森林无故受老虎攻击受伤,霹州野生动物保护局较后在森林中发现一具虎尸,它身中数枪和毒箭,前脚被陷阱夹断,死状令该局官员掉泪。该局怀疑原住民企图杀虎而受伤,正考虑提控杀虎凶手。

我想,祖先把虎列入生肖中,是要我们把它視作朋友,这世界不仅是人类生存的地方,也是所有动物的居所。与其用枪把虎杀害,不如按下快门,把它最美好的瞬间变成永恒,更具意义。

虎年即将降临,就让我们以愉快的心情迎接它。

祝新年进步。

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Landscapes of Bintulu 睽違民都鲁

风光迤逦的海岸

没有岩石,哪激得起美麗浪花
经得起严峻考验,才有骄人的成绩

摄影师与一对新人

多年前,我曾来过这个小镇,當時简陋小机场座落在市中心,人口稀少,发展落后。多年后重遊,民都魯已成为东马重镇,是闻名于世的液体天然气生产地,其海岸风光更是迷人。

My first visit to Bintulu was way back in the late 70’s. It was then a small town with a small population and lack of economic activities. The airport was just a short walking distance from the town centre.

Today, it has developed into a booming industrial town and one of the largest producers for liquefied natural gas in the world.

I was there last week for a private function; these are the few images I made during my stay there.


Thursday, December 31, 2009

新年进步,万事如意 Happy New Year


年轻时,常以“光阴似剑,日月如梭”形容时光过得很快,像是感叹年华的消失。如今回想起,当时只不过像南宋诗人辛弃疾所说的:“少年不识愁滋味....为赋新诗强说愁”。

2009年即将与我们道别的时刻,再用以上两句话表达时光过得很快,心中却有另一种难以言愈的感觉,似深感还有许多事还待完成,惋惜岁月虚度!

过了今天午夜,2009年将走进历史,新的一年又来到人间。过去无论成功或失败,高兴或悲伤,都是不争的事实。好的让我们珍惜和感恩,坏的让我们学习接受和放下。让我们充满热诚和希望来迎接2010年。

我要感谢所有游览我部落格的朋友,有的还给了我许多鼓励的话。您们的关怀和支持增添我对摄影艺术创作的信心,希望有机会向前辈们学习,2010年能拍到更多和满意的照片与大家分享。

恭祝新年进步。

Happy New Year. May 2010 brings you joy and happiness

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

秋韵 Autumn Melody

仙乃日神山在卓玛拉错(珍珠海)的倒影。
对我来说,是稻城亚丁整个行程中最辛苦的经验。我们早上6点一刻来到亚丁沟口,但骑马生意在7点半才开始,为了赶在日出前抵达珍珠海,我们摸黑步行约6公里进山。虽然不像今年6月份攀登沙巴神山般辛苦,但这里是高原区,抵达目的地时已气喘如牛,太阳已爬过山头了!


流水,树的倒影,蔚蓝色的天空和云朵,
把央迈勇衬托得更为潇洒。


长焦镜下的央迈勇


洛绒牛场有雪山,黄叶,河流,蓝天和白云,处处都是美景。


经幡在山脚下飘摇,宛如人在仙境中


新都桥被喻为‘摄影家的天堂’,
但我在这里没有太大收获,满意的照片没几张。我们抵达农庄时,天还未亮,大家都把三脚架和相机安装好,面向太阳升起的方向,等待第一道阳光。但我觉得这张顺光拍摄的还颇有秋天的味道


早上从成都开车,抵达新都桥已是晚上七点多了。这里海拔3,300米,从海拔300多米的成都抵达这里,许多人都有高山反应的现象。我们下榻的酒店又没有电梯,当我把行李扛上三楼时,即觉得头晕,这可能是高山反应吧?


夕阳下的桦树林,令秋天的气息更浓厚


新都桥景色-太阳升起,又是新的一天的开始。民房户户炊烟袅袅,农夫出门工作,学童背著书包也上学去了,我看到的是一股朝气。


稻城红草地-离稻城约20公里处的大路旁,是所有到稻城的摄影发烧友必到之处。每年的秋天,水草就会换上红色衣裳,在山丘,杨树和蓝天衬托下,形成一幅美丽和色彩缤纷的构图。


伍须海
是四川省甘孜州九龙区的高原湖泊,湖面海拔3,700米,清澈如镜,为甘孜著名风景区。我特别喜欢湖中的倒影。


九龙伍须海景区相当大,如你要省脚力,可骑当地牧民养的马匹。旺季马匹还供不应求!我在沿湖步行约5公里,回程时因找不到马,只好徒步走出来,比原订时间迟了近半小时才回到集合地点。


牧民应我的要求,在湖边让我拍下这张照片


情歌的故乡-康定
离康定约26公里的木格错是个著名的风景区。这里有高原湖泊,温泉,松木和森林。秋天的景色迷人,难怪情歌在这里写出来。


木格错山上的小径和满山的黄叶


木格错七色海
温泉很多水眼冒出热气,是天然温泉,
在蔚蓝天空反射下,海面呈现七彩颜色,因此取名。


日照金山-海螺沟贡嘎山
稻城亚丁旅程结束后,回成都途中,我们选择在泸定下车,南下到海螺沟下榻金山饭店,目的就是观看日照金山的景色。酒店天台天晴时可看到贡嘎山脉的数座小山,就会有日照金山的景色。可惜在海螺沟的2天,天不作美,每天都下着细雨,实在令我们失望。就在我们离开的那个早上,天空突然放晴,我拍下这几张照片,虽不理想,但总算没空手回。


通往天空的云梯
甘孜州是藏族为主的地区,藏教寺庙随处可见。从理塘往稻城途中,天刚亮来到这座寺庙。团友各自寻找摄影题材,我和唐师傅站在围墙外等候光线,当天空出现几朵彤云时,按下快门拍下这张似通往天空的云梯。


藏族父女穿着鲜艳的服饰,经过挂满经幡的马泥堆


秋韵

到外国拍摄,四季中我最爱秋天的景色。

马来西亚气候常年如春夏。对我而言,这两季并不特别;我怕冷,对寒冷的冬天甚至带点恐惧,因此,秋天就成了我的最爱。

我喜欢看那漫山遍野的红叶,大地像穿上一件红黄的艳丽衣裳;我也喜欢看那桦树在风中舞动着身体,潇洒地与落叶告别。 秋天也给我有种飘零和孤独的感觉,富有诗意!

以前,每逢北半球秋天来临时,正是部门会议和工作量最重的时刻,无暇出国,错过了一个又一个秋天。2008年卸下所有任务后,第一个金秋时节,赶得上和友人背着相机来到新疆的喀纳斯和禾木。这是我亲身体验的第一个秋,颇有相见恨晚的感觉。

在禾木,看到那片片黄叶在秋风的伴奏下,空中飞舞。这不正是一首老歌‘黄叶舞秋风’所描述的景色吗? 此景至今难忘。

今年十月,我又背着相机飞成都,然后乘车往西部的甘孜州一路前进,途经新都桥,九龙,理塘,最后抵达稻城和‘神仙居住的地方’-亚丁。一路风光迤逦,亚丁更是我向往已久的名胜地。回程,我们停留在‘情歌的故乡’-康定,拍摄木格措的秋色。

全程约两千公里,由于部分道路受到川震的影响,路况缺佳,使整个旅程更为艰苦。

稻城亚丁属高原地区,海拔3,000 4,000米,不少团友相继出现头痛,头晕或呕吐的反应。这是缺氧所引起的高山反应,幸亏情况不是太严重,适应后很快就恢复了。

十月虽是秋天,但已像初冬的气候,在亚丁还下起霜。住宿方面,这里比新疆或其他旅游区孙色得多。在亚丁,我们得住在藏民的家里,这里没有卫生间设备,连梳洗和洗澡的地方都没有,我两天没洗澡,打破多年来的记录。幸好藏族朋友非常友善,把最好的食物来招待远方的客人。

甘孜是拍摄秋天景色的经典路线,许多摄影发烧友都会选择在这段时间拍摄。我再一次回到秋的环抱中,整个行程所遭受到的舟车劳顿和高原反应之苦,都抛到九霄云外。拍摄的相片虽不完美,却记录了我和秋的对话和互动。

我爱秋天,希望明年的秋天,能再次飞扑到秋的环抱。


Autumn Melody

Among the four seasons, autumn is my favourite.

In the past, October till the end of the year is the busiest time of the year for me. Therefore, it was near impossible for me to go abroad during autumn.

Last year, after I relinquished from all my duties, I went to Northern Xinjiang, China in October. It was my first autumn since so many years ago. I was fascinated by the colourful landscape in Kanas and Hom during the autumn season.

October this year I travelled to Daocheng and Yading in Sichuan Province, China with a group of photographers. Yading is a famous nature reserve in China and the Tibetan’s holy land. There are 3 renowned holy peaks about 5000 to 6000 meters high. Yading is also a photographers’ paradise.

Yading is still relatively unspoiled. The journey was tough but I had no regret going there.


Sunday, October 11, 2009

感受婆罗洲 Sabah-the photographers’ paradise


Home for my family





Silver Leaf Monkey

Proboscis


Black and Yellow Broadbill




巴州拥有多个风光迤逦的小岛,还有丰富的植物和生物群。得天独厚的天然资源,每年都吸引了无数来自海内外的观光客,这里也是摄影爱好者的天堂。

风光摄影不说,如果你爱好拍摄鸟类,这里就有超过600多种本土和季候鸟。上月我和数位沙州摄鸟高手到山打根的Sukau拍摄,我们下榻 Bilit Rainforest Lodge,度假村环境优美,设备齐全,在这偏远的地方,能有如此舒适的住所确是不错。度假村河的两岸就是一个观鸟的好地方。可惜我最长的镜头才400米,拍不到鸟,不过若在船上拍摄,却比我朋友的600米来的生动和灵活。

从亚庇到山打根途中,我们停在Labuk Bay Proboscis Sanctuary看长鼻猴。我们特赶在喂食时间抵达,大部分长鼻猴将在喂食台等待,也是我们拍摄它们的好时机。只见它们十多只一组,每组都有一只较大的长鼻猴为首领。 据管理人说:它们的社会组织好像人类般,有著家庭的模式,每一组就是一个家庭。

来到沙州,我不忘旧地重游,再次来到仙本娜的海域,探望那海上人家。遗憾的是天气不好,光线不足,至到下午才看到太阳。

我要感谢Winston Tai, Simon Yeo, Dato’Yap, CH Chia, TS Wong和沙巴及山打根摄影学会的朋友。他们都是摄影高手,认识他们令我获益匪浅。

Sabah is the photographers’ paradise. It has many beautiful islands and a number of national parks. Sabah is also renowned for its remarkable flora and fauna. It is also a favourite place for bird- watching as there are over 600 resident and migratory birds found in this area.

Besides bird-watching, proboscis monkey is another attraction for tourists and photographers. Labuk Bay Proboscis Sanctuary in Sandakan is a home for a large number of proboscises. We went there during feeding time; they came out in a group of family, 200 mm lens should be long enough to get them close in our viewfinder.

For bird shooting, Sukau is one of the local photographer’s favourite. We stayed one night in Sukau in Bilit Rainforest Lodge. The lodge is located at the side of the Kinabatangan River. I like the atmosphere here as the lodge was clean and our stay was comfortable.

The boatman took us for bird shooting along the river. We were lucky as we saw quite a number of beautiful birds. The longest zoom lens I got is 100-400 mm, which is not long enough for the purpose.

My trip ended in Semporna. It was my 3rd visit here within a year. My intention of course is to visit the sea gypsies. The weather was not very friendly with hazy sky and poor sunlight but this did not dampen my spirits.

I got acquainted with friends from The Photography Society of Sabah and The Photography Society of Sandakan. They are very helpful and I thank their hospitality.